Note – Almost all fruit trees, whether on standard or dwarfing rootstocks, are too big for a typical backyard orchard. The easiest, most effective way to keep fruit trees at manageable size (about eight feet high) is by summer pruning.

Standard (15-30 feet at maturity) Betulaefolia – For Asian pears. Very vigorous, tolerates wet soil, dry soil, alkaline soil. Resists pear decline. More vigorous than Calleryana, and more winter hardy. Unpruned trees 15′-25′ at maturity.

Calleryana – For flowering pears and Asian pears. Preferred rootstock for warm winter/hot summer climates and for sandy soils. Also adapted to wet soils. Asian pear varieties slightly dwarfed (90%), bear heavily at young age.

Domestic Apple/Standard Apple – Most rugged rootstock for apples. Vigorous, deep-rooted, cold-hardy. Tolerates wet soil, dry soil, poor soil. Unpruned tree height of standard varieties 18′ to 30 feet. Trees on apple seedling may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

Lovell – More tolerant of wet soils than Nemaguard. Also more cold hardy. Susceptible to nematodes in sandy soils. For plums, peaches, nectarines, apricots, prunes, almond.

M-111 –  Excellent all-around rootstock for apples. Induces early and heavy bearing. Tolerates wet soil, dry soil, poor soil. Resists woolly apple aphids and collar rot. Trees dwarfed to 85%.

Mahaleb – The most winter hardy of the commonly used cherry rootstocks. Sweet cherries slightly dwarfed, no dwarfing effect on sour types. Induces early, heavy bearing. Resists crown gall, bacterial canker, some nematodes. Not tolerant of wet soils.

Mazzard –  Standard rootstock for sweet cherries. Vigorous, more tolerant of wet soils than Mahaleb (but good drainage still required). Resistant to root-knot nematodes and oak-root fungus.

Myrobalan 29C – Shallow but vigorous root system. Tolerates wet soils. Immune to root-knot nematodes, some resistance to oak-root fungus. Trees reach larger size compared to Marianna 26-24. For apricots, plums, most almonds.

Nemaguard – Vigorous, resists root-knot nematode. Excellent for well-drained soils. In poorly-drained soil, plant on a hill. For nectarines, apricots, plums, prunes, almonds.

Domestic Pear Seedling – For European & hybrid pears. Vigorous, relatively tolerant of wet soils. Resistant to oak-root fungus. Long-lived trees reach 20-25 feet.

Semi-Dwarf (8-25 feet at maturity) Citation – Peaches and nectarines dwarfed to 8 to 14 feet. Apricots and plums dwarfed to 3/4 of standard. Very tolerant of wet soil, induces early dormancy in dry soil. Very winter hardy. Resists root-knot nematodes. Trees bear at young age. Pat. No. 5112. (Zaiger)

Maxma – For sweet cherries. In heavy soils, trees dwarfed to 12′-15′. Resistant to bacterial canker. Relatively tolerant of wet soils (good drainage still required). Trees begin bearing at young age.

OHXF333 – European & Asian pears on this rootstock are dwarfed to about 2/3 the size of standard (about 12-18′ if not pruned).  Widely adapted, disease resistant.  Trees on this may be held to any desired height by summer pruning.

M-7 & M-7A – Dwarfs to 65% of standard. Induces early and heavy bearing. Resistant to fireblight, powdery mildew, moderately resistant to collar rot. Good anchorage. Very winter hardy, widely adapted. Prone to suckering.

Marianna 26-24 – Shallow root system, much more tolerant of wet soils than Lovell or Nemaguard. Resistant to oak-root fungus, root-knot nematodes. Mature trees comparatively small. For apricots, plums, most almonds.

Dwarf or Miniature (4-12 feet at maturity) Geneva 969 – Extremely dwarfing rootstock for apples.  Trees Dwarfed to 8 to 10 feet.  Ideal for high density planting, small spaces in garden, tub growing.  Induces early and heavy bearing.  Small root system, young trees may need staking.  Good for container growing.

Zaiger Dwarf/Newroot  1 – Dwarfing rootstock for cherries.  Dwarf trees 8 to 12 feet unpruned.  Ideal for container growing. Promotes early bearing.

Tips for Success

1. Avoid planting on excessively hot days (over 95 degrees).
2. Plant the same day or the next day after purchase.
3. Water plants in their nursery containers when you get home and immediately before planting.
4. Pre-moisten the planting hole and water thoroughly after planting.
5. Keep plants evenly-moist. You might have to water 2-3 times a day if they are small.
6. Don’t rely on automatic irrigation for the first week or in excessive heat; check plants daily and water if needed.
7. For added protection, spray Wilt Stop on leaves to reduce water loss (don’t spray plants with hairy leaves).

Planting during our warm summer months requires a few simple safeguards to ensure a successful transplanting and fresh, vigorous growth in your plant’s new home.

Check your plants daily during the first 8-12 week establishment period, even more often when it’s hot.  Water plants preferably before they show a need.
If you have a sprinkler system, do not depend on the sprinklers to provide adequate water for recent transplants.(Water from a sprinkler may not penetrate the entire root zone and the plants will slowly decline.)Supplement with a hose instead.

SHRUBS AND TREES
Follow our planting guidelines for digging the planting hole. Pre-moisten this hole with water and thoroughly water the plant itself. For best results, use both Master Nursery Vitamin B-1 and most important, E-Z Wet. After all water has drained from the hole, rough up its surface and continue to follow our planting instruction guide.

When you have completed filling the soil mixture around the plant, build a small, circular dam around the plant, large enough to hold 1 to 5 gallons of water, (Depending on plant size.) Water slowly but thoroughly by trickle-flooding within the dam.

Remember, all of our plants are guaranteed to grow. Please follow Alden Lane Nursery’s guidelines for continued success in your garden and call us the first moment you are concerned.

BEDDING PLANTS AND GROUND COVERS
These starter plants have very small root systems and require extra moisture to get established. During the warm season, special attention will ensure success. You may need to water 2-3+ times per day to provide adequate moisture. If you can’t plant the day you bring your plants home, place them in a sheltered location and keep them well watered. This may require several waterings a day to keep them alive. Plant them ASAP, within 2 days at the most.

HANGING BASKETS
Plants in hanging containers are more exposed to the elements. You may need to check your plants 2-3 times per day. On especially hot days you might consider taking them down and setting them in a cooler, more protected spot.

Manzanita
Manzanita is also a California native. It is a ground cover that comes in a variety of shapes and characteristics.

Toyon
Toyon  is a very large shrub, or small tree with beautiful red berries at Christmas time.

Erysimums (Wall Flowers)
Erysimums are very hardy, they love cold and dry. In 1990, we had some of these and they bloomed right through that 12 degree weather if you can believe that. Again, not a real thirsty plant.

Buckwheat
Buckwheat this is another adaptable California native.

Carpenteria
This is another California native, its called bush anemone or Carpenteria. And it produces beautiful white flowers with a yellow center in the spring.

Hosta plants are a perennial favorite among gardeners due to their beautiful, lush foliage and easy care temperament. They have such variety in color, leaf shape, size and texture that they can find homes in many a garden.

As with all plants that are considered low maintenance, there are tips to help you more successfully grow your hosta:

• Hosta plants are known for being shade lovers. They like bright shade, but not direct sun, so be aware of this when selecting a location for your hostas.
• Hosta leaves come in a variety of greens, ranging from a deep green (or even a blueish tint!) to a light chartreuse or even to a soft, creamy white. The variegated varieties especially need a little more sun (but still not hot afternoon sun) to keep their striking colors.
• Think ahead about the soil when you plant your hostas. They are going to be happiest in rich organic soil that is slightly acid. Give your hosta’s roots room to establish by digging your planting hole at least twice as wide as the plant you are planting. The roots do not grow deep, but will spread out at least as far as the foliage if not beyond..
• Drainage is extremely important with hostas. When newly planted, keep the roots moist, but not too wet. Once established, hosta require slightly less attention.
• To keep your growing hostas successfully, fertilize them each spring with an all-purpose fertilizer such as Maxsea or Osmocote.
• Possible problems with hostas could be deer if you happen to have those around or more likely slugs and snails. If you see holes in the leaves, you might have these guys. Apply some Sluggo Plus to keep them at bay.

A note to our early spring gardeners… Hosta rest in the winter. They are one of those plants that you have to be able to imagine the possibility while they are dormant. When you come in to buy one right now, it will look like this…

Hosta plants are a beautiful addition to any garden and are great in containers. Snipped hosta leaves can be a great greenery to add to an indoor vase. Here are a few of the possibilities!

“Gardening is the Slowest of the Performing Arts”

Garden Historian and writer Mac Griswold’s quote is a favorite at Alden Lane, and as we roll into 2021 it got us reflecting on time as an element of garden design. With Nature being the major component of our design palette, change is constant. From a mindset of embracing this change and evolution in our landscapes, we can watch first-hand how plants grow to full size and, yes, sometimes die. Watch as over the course of a year wind ripples through the foliage; sun angles highlight fall leaves and grass plumes; blazing summer sun sends us into the shade; all manner of wildlife finds a reason to show up; rain pops California poppies out of the ground; frost blankets everything with shimmering crystals. That knee-high Camellia you planted a while back – it’s now 8′ tall and its blooms are in their full glory.

Because in the natural world change and evolution are givens, take the long view in planning and design. Here are some ideas to think about as you invest in your personal landscape:

o Start with permanent plantings that will form the framework of your design for years to come. What do you wish you had planted 5 years ago? Think about long lived trees and shrubs.

o Plant food for your family. This is fruit tree season, when the selection is at its largest and planting conditions are favorable. Prepare soil now for spring vegetable planting season.

o Plant for wildlife. Think about multiple layers of foliage for shelter and a fountain or birdbath for a water source. A year-round succession of blooming plants will produce the nectar and pollen “garden buffets” for our pollinator friends the bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

o Plant diversity. By planting a variety of different plants suited to all of your yard’s micro-climates, we strengthen the ecosystem and
minimize pest and disease problems.

o Plant small. Trees from a No.15 container can establish quickly. Plant shrubs from No. 1 or No. 5 containers, and perennials from 4″ or No. 1 containers. Remember to space out your plants to allow for their mature size. It’s ok if the design looks a little sparse at first.

o Edit as needed, pull out anything that hasn’t done well, is too crowded, or that you simply don’t like. Refresh with new plantings. Enjoy the growth and change of your garden’s performance for years to come.

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One of our seed companies, Botanical Interests, provided us with this fun booklet:

• Tips on keeping your pumpkin fresh
• A stencil you could use to decorate your pumpkin
• A few pumpkin recipes
• A coloring page!