Category: Flowers

Tips for Pruning Roses

obj6306geo2742pg239p7[1]The suggested time for pruning roses is January in Northern California. Even though your roses may still be leafy, budded or blooming it is time to force them to rest. Pruning them back now, removing every single leaf and dormant spraying with copper will provide a healthy beginning for the coming season.

Here are some tips in advance of our pruning classes.

What You’ll Need:

  • Body armor – safety or prescription glasses, a hat, and a long-sleeved sweatshirt will go a long way insulating you from thorny branches. A good pair of leather gloves such as gauntlet types will do a superior job of protecting your forearms
  • Pruning shears – sharp hand shears along with a long-handled lopper and a pruning saw are helpful for hard to reach or extra large wood
  • Pruning seal – sealing cuts prevents the cane borer insect from invading and killing stems
  • Copper dormant spray like Monterey Liqui-Cop to control over-wintering diseases

For specific variety and form (bush, miniature, tree & shrub) pruning tips, come in and one our rose experts will be happy to help. In the meantime here are some pruning basics. For the most part, roses produce flowers on current season growth. Therefore, the more new growth you have, the more bloom potential you’ll enjoy. Pruning is one way of stimulating new growth.

If your bush form roses have grown sky high lop off the top one-quarter to one-third of the plant so you can more easily and safely do the ‘fine pruning.’ For bush and tree forms you always want to maintain evenly spaced canes (stems) around the outside of the plant. The number of canes that you leave depends on the vigor of the plant. Three to seven is the rule in the case of bush roses. Tree roses rarely sprout new ones as they age so encourage and maintain those well-spaced branches. The final height of the stems depends on the variety and vigor of the plant.

We have gotten away from pruning roses to within an inch of their life (6-12 inches). The general rule is to prune back by at least 1/3rd, and no more than 1/2. Leaving the canes a bit longer provides the plant with extra energy for the coming season’s performance. Prune to an outside bud where a leaf was to ensure that the next branch will grow in an outward direction. On both tree and bush roses remove all twigs and stems that are crowding the center of the plant. The extra sunlight will warm the bud union and encourage more young stems to grow that will eventually be selected to replace the older canes. The light also stimulates increased flower production.

The bud union is the area where desirable buds from the specific rose variety join the rose rootstock .

Always remove any stems coming from below the bud union. These suckers are vigorous and can over-grow the desirable rose. If your white or pink rose is producing small red flowers, it has been taken over by the rootstock rose.

Maintain a nice compliment of permanent climbing rose canes that you will arch against the fence, wall or train over an arbor. The stems that grow off these permanent canes are pruned back to four buds. The resulting new growth will produce a mass of flowers. There are always exceptions to the rule so touch base with our rose experts for just the right pruning guidance.

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Landscaping with Roses

Roses are perhaps the most popular ways to add vibrant color to your landscape. If you don’t love them already, give them a try! Roses are available in a myriad of colors and styles; some suited for cutting, others suited for landscaping, some are climbers, others low and rambling. Roses add beauty, fragrance, curb appeal and color, and they attract beneficial pollinators to the landscape.

Most roses will bloom the first year and grow under many different climatic and soil conditions. However, when given optimum conditions, roses will thrive for years to come.

Don’t be afraid to experiment using roses in your landscape. Some uses might include:

  • low growing types for planting along beds or lawn,
  • a pathway leading to your front door,
  • mass plantings of floribundas, miniatures or even hybrid teas for a magnificent blast of color and beauty,
  • hybrid tea roses to create a beautiful and colorful cutting garden to fill your vases with all season long,
  • a climbing variety to grow up a trellis or over an arbor,
  • tree types, making a great backdrop and companion plant to other shrubs and perennials in your garden,
  • and roses which thrive in containers on a porch or deck.

Whichever you choose, all lend themselves to a very casual or formal looking landscape. Oh, my! So many options! Next time you are wondering what can I plant, consider using roses. We’re ready to help you select one, two or even three that will suit your style. You’ll be glad you did!

See our 2024 rose list HERE.

January Garden Checklist

checkbox Brighten the garden with colorful bedding plants. Refresh your garden beds and containers with primroses, pansies, Iceland poppies and more. Check with the staff for helpful advice and ideas.

checkbox Feed camellias, azaleas, rhododendrons monthly with Master Bloom through March.

checkbox Prevent crabgrass before it starts. Apply Bonide Crabgrass & Weed Preventer (with fertilizer) now to keep crabgrass seeds from sprouting in your lawn. Apply Bonide Crabgrass & Weed Preventer (without fertilizer) to ornamental landscape. Use Corn Gluten around edibles.

checkbox Spray Your Roses Now. An application of dormant oil just after winter pruning will help reduce pest populations by smothering over-wintering eggs. Spraying copper fungicides, as well, will halt diseases such as rust, blackspot and powdery mildew. Bonide All Seasons Spray Oil and copper are listed for use on organic gardens.

checkbox Protect tender plants when frosts are expected. If it hasn’t been raining, make sure to water plants ahead of a cold snap. Cover with drawstring frost bags or drape with protective frost blanket. String non-LED Christmas tree lights on your frost-tender plants when a freeze is expected. The warmth from the bulbs will provide another measure of protection.

checkbox Keep up your New Year’s Resolution . . . join the Livermore-Amador Valley Garden Club (lavgc.org) and the Mt. Diablo Rose Society (mtdiablorosesociety.org), Northern California Daffodil Society (daffodil.org), Iris Society (MtDiabloIris@gmail.com) and Valley Bonsai Society (valleybonsaisociety.com).

Time to Plant Your Fall Bulbs

Think spring now! The second shipment of bulbs has arrived, bringing our collection up to a peak, Most bulbs have arrived including tulips, hyacinths, crocus, daffodils/narcissus, iris, freesias, ranunculus, and more…

For the best selection shop early. Store bulbs in a cool dry place until the weather substantially cools this fall before planting. Refrigerate tulips and hyacinths for 6-8 weeks. The chilling enhances flower development providing for nice long stems. Put the bulbs in paper bags, label them, date them, and put them in the crisper. Do not mistake them for soup ingredients. Be prepared to plant them as soon as you take them out of refrigeration (each day you delay you lose a week of chilling benefit).

Consider planting bulbs in containers. This is a great way to accent your porch or patio. When they are finished blooming you can then relocate them to a side yard where they can continue to be watered and nurtured allowing them to dry down naturally. It’s important that the bulb is allowed to reabsorb all the energy of the leaves before they rest in summer.

Add another dimension to your bulb pot or garden by planting a blooming blanket of flowers over the top. Here are some great double deck combinations: yellow daffodils and dark blue/purple pansies; peach tulips and light blue forget-me-nots; white tulips and pastel yellow pansies; red tulips, white paludosum daisies with blue pansies.

Most bulbs are planted point up, but when in doubt, plant sideways! Our nursery professionals will show you what’s up and what’s down.

Choose bulbs that will provide a succession of bloom. There are varieties of tulips, daffodils, narcissus, and iris that will provide early, mid, or late spring bloom. 

The layered look not only works in fashion but in the garden too. In a pot or garden bed plant bulbs in layers to produce a mixed bouquet look. Bulbs are planted 2½ times their diameter deep. So plant the larger bulbs, like daffodils deep. Over the top of daffodils plant tulips, then freesia and finally grape hyacinths.

You can even layer the same kind of bulb. For instance plant all daffodils some at the recommended depth of 6-8″ and another layer at 4″.  The shallower ones will bloom first and the deeper later.

Master Nursery Bulb Food

Formulated to aid in the development of strong root systems, sturdy and colorful flowers. Use at planting time and during the growing season. Provides ample quantities of nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash for good growth and bulb development for next years bloom.

December Garden Checklist

Things to do this month

checkbox[1] Indoor Bulbs – Start paperwhites, hyacinth or amaryllis now for showy blooms in the weeks ahead. They bloom indoors and make an ideal housewarming gift. We have instructions along with an assortment of bulbs suitable for forcing at https://www.aldenlane.com/paperwhites

checkbox[1] Come on by the nursery and pick up a gift card for your favorite gardening pal, the postal carrier or the babysitter. It’s a gift sure to please anybody and everybody on your shopping list.

checkbox[1] Prevent Peach Leaf Curl! Protect fruit trees and deciduous shade trees from overwintering diseases and pests. Use Monterey Liqui-Cop, or Bonide Liquid Copper Spray now if you haven’t already. For more details, to go https://www.aldenlane.com/dormant-spray.

checkbox[1] Protect frost tender plants when frosts are expected. For added protection cover with “Fleece Bags” or drape plants with plant blanket fabric. String ­non-LED Christmas tree lights on your frost-tender plants when a freeze is expected. The warmth from the bulbs will provide another measure of protection. Click on https://www.aldenlane.com/winter-proof.

checkbox[1] Poinsettias and cyclamen make wonderful hostess gifts and thank you’s to work associates. And don’t forget to treat yourself and decorate the home too.

checkbox[1] Take care of gift plants by placing them in a comfortable, well-lit area of the home. Punch a hole in the foil covering for drainage. Place away from drafts.

checkbox[1] Prune most fruit trees, roses, and other leafless trees and shrubs from December through January. WARNING: Do not prune spring-blooming shrubs and trees such as magnolia, quince, flowering cherry, etc. until the blooming period is over.

checkbox[1] Keep up your New Year’s Resolution . . . Join the Livermore-Amador Valley Garden Club (www.lavgc.org), Mt. Diablo Rose Society (mtdiablorosesociety.org), Valley Bonsai Society (valleybonsaisociety.com), Mt. Diablo Iris Society, Northern California Daffodil Society (Daffodil.org).

checkbox[1] Think Summer pies and jams! By mid-month we’ll have all the perennial vegetables and fruits. Currently, we have rhubarb, raspberry, blackberry, and many other cane fruits.

checkbox[1] Set out winter blooming annuals for a garden filled with color. Choose primroses, pansies, Iceland poppies, ornamental cabbage, and kale. Check with the staff.

Growing Paperwhites Indoors

One of the simplest and most rewarding winter gardening projects to take on is forcing (coaxing) paperwhite narcissus to bloom indoors.  In just 4 to 6 weeks after planting, you will see slender stocks produce intensely fragrant and delicate blooms.  We are planting up paperwhites now for the holidays ahead and you can too. By planting additional pots of paperwhites every ten days to two weeks, you can have continuous displays of blooms all winter long.

Forcing Paperwhites in Pots

In a 6-8″ glass dish, or terracotta cactus dish, (preferably without a drainage hole) place 5 to 7 paperwhite bulbs pointed side up over a layer of sand, pebbles, or florist’s marbles.  (Place enough sand, pebbles, etc. under the bulbs so that the shoulders of the bulbs are just below the rim of the dish.)

Partially cover the bulbs with an additional layer of sand, pebbles, etc. and add water. Maintain the water level just below the bottom of the bulbs, so they are not soggy wet, just moist.

You can also plant them in a pot with drainage. Nestle the bulbs into Master’s Professional Potting Soil, add water and enjoy – add decorative rocks as a top layer.

Keep the bulbs in a cool place (55 to 60 degrees) for a couple of weeks, watering as needed to keep them from drying out. When the sprouts are about 4″ tall, bring them into the light and warmth of your home where they will continue to grow and bloom.  Pinch off spent blooms so you can continue to enjoy the unfurling beauty.

Sasanqua Camellia – a Versatile Early Bloomer!

We just received a sizable shipment of Sasanqua camellias; some are beginning to bloom. Sasanqua Camellias are, “the other Camellia,” one of the stars of the winter garden. This cousin of the commonly planted Japanese Camellia is a bit more sun tolerant (until 10:30-11:00am), and depending on the variety makes an excellent gracefully branching ground cover or espaliered shrub, informal hedge as well as an excellent container plant. You might also plant a Sasanqua Camellia under trees to give color to otherwise green backdrops. Some varieties of Sasanquas begin blooming now, and other variations are colorful at Christmas.

Planting Sasanqua Camellias

You will want to follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.  Provide well-drained soil, rich in organic matter amended with E.B. Stone Acid Planting Mix. Keep roots cool with a thick layer of mulch.  Pruning time should be done in the spring after flowering has ceased.

Below find the top varieties that have outstanding ability to perform. Not only are they covered with hundreds of flowers during the fall and winter months, but the dark green evergreen foliage is a plus for any garden.

EARLY SEASON

  • Shishi Gashira. Semi-double to peony form, lovely soft pink blooms. Low spreader.
  • Show No Sakae. Semi-double to rose-form flowers with a lovely soft pink color.  This camellia is very versatile and does great in a large hanging basket, as a groundcover or vining up a wall.
  • Yuletide:  Brilliant, fiery red, single blooms centered with bright yellow stamens. Upright.

MIDSEASON

  • Apple Blossom is a vivid cerise red coloring edge the white petals of these large single blossoms. The crown of golden stamens adds lovely contrast. Upright growth pattern and blooms in mid-season.
  • White Doves. White semi-double to loose peony form. Spreader.

masterbloomFeed camellias through the cooler months with Master Bloom to promote flower and bud development. Suitable for all your blooming and fruiting plants, including roses, lilacs, perennials, azaleas, and citrus.

Feed Camellias monthly during spring and summer with Camellia, Azalea, Gardenia, & Rhododendron Food.

November Garden Checklist

checkbox[1] Indoor Bulbs – Start paperwhites, hyacinth, or amaryllis now for showy blooms in the weeks ahead. They bloom indoors and make an ideal housewarming gift. We have instructions along with an assortment of bulbs suitable for forcing at https://www.aldenlane.com/paperwhites.

checkbox[1] Outdoor Bulbs – Thanksgiving marks the ideal weekend in our climate for planting fall bulbs. Select bulbs, including tulips, hyacinth, Muscari, and narcissus, etc. Refrigerate Tulips & hyacinth until Thanksgiving when the weather outside has cooled. Plant your bulbs out in the landscape to the required depth and fertilize with Master Nursery Bulb Food. Your investment will reward you with timely displays of spring color.

checkbox[1] Plant onions and garlic from bulbs now.  Bare root onions arrive this month.

checkbox[1] Prevent Peach Leaf Curl! Protect fruit trees and deciduous shade trees from overwintering diseases and pests. Use Monterey Liqui-Cop, or Bonide Liquid Copper Spray now, even before leaf drop. For more details, to go Dormant Spray to Protect Your Fruit Trees Starts in Fall – Alden Lane Nursery

checkbox[1] Protect frost-tender plants before frosts arrive. Water plants ahead of a freeze and for added protection cover with “Fleece Bags” or drape plants with fabric frost blankets. String ­non-LED Christmas tree lights on your frost-tender plants. The warmth from the bulbs will provide another measure of protection.

checkbox[1] Set out winter-blooming annuals for a garden filled with color. Choose primroses, pansies, Iceland poppies, ornamental cabbage, and kale. Check with the staff.

Hydrangea Blue

Many Hydrangeas bloom in beautiful shades from pink to blue. It is often the soil pH that determines if a hydrangea blooms blue or pink, and bloom color may change if the pH changes.

Hydrangeas, which were blue when purchased, will begin to have pink blooms in subsequent months given our alkaline soil and water.

Enjoy the vibrant blue color of hydrangeas by adding soil acidifiers to the planting bed. Use Hydra Blue to help move the pH into the acid range. Pink or purple hydrangeas can be persuaded to bloom in the blue hues with some help from Hydra Blue. If you want hydrangeas to bloom pink, don’t do anything, they will naturally drift in that direction.

TO TURN HYDRANGEAS BLUE – Apply from 1 tablespoon to 1/4 cup per plant depending on the age and size of the plant. The first application should be made in fall as the plant begins to go into its dormant period. Make additional monthly treatments now through February and beyond for a deeper shade of blue.

Native Intelligence

California Wild Lilac (Ceanothus sp.) – spring blooms in shades of blue attract pollinators and provide homes for butterfly larvae.

An Occasional Look at Some of Our Hard-Working California Native Plants

What’s so smart about adding California native plants to your landscape? The simple answer is the delightful experience of growing a tree, shrub or perennial that gives back in so many ways. The sight of a flock of Cedar Waxwings feasting on Toyon Berries. Screaming orange California Poppies peppering the roadside. The summer surprise of big pink and purple orchid-like flowers blooming on a desert willow. A cold hummingbird is enjoying a sip of nectar from a February blooming manzanita. After you fall in love with these plants for who they are and what they bring to your garden, you’ll appreciate their good looks and practicality, thriving with whatever nature throws at them – hot, dry summers and cold, sometimes rainy winters. Here’s a focus on small native trees, usually grown with a multi-trunk form:

Western Redbud Cercis occidentalis – Beauty in every season, from the showy pink flowers clinging tightly to bare branches in spring, to the pretty heart-shaped leaves which turn a rich yellow in the fall.

Ray Hartman Ceanothus Ceanothus ‘Ray Hartman’ – Grow this as a single trunk tree, or plant it as a shrub and sculpt it into an attractive, purple-blue flowered evergreen tree.

Desert Willow Chilopsis linearis – Long narrow willow-like leaves belie the water sipping nature of this small tree. Pick one with the flower color you prefer, from pale pink to deeper burgundy, purple or two tones. Enjoy the flowers as much as hummingbirds do.

California Buckeye Aesculus californica – Large palmate leaves graced by showy spikes of white flowers in late spring. Adapted to dry climates by dropping its leaves as early as August, it is nevertheless beautiful when bear with its ghostly pale gray limbs.

Flannel Bush Fremontodendron species – Big, bright yellow flowers bring the wow to this fast-growing, evergreen showstopper.