Category: Edibles

August Vegetable Guide

August is the month to begin thinking about winter vegetables. Yes, it seems too hot, but seeds for broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and snap peas can be started in the ground or indoor seed trays this month. August is also the time to keep an eye out for mildew. As the sun sets lower in the sky and days shorten, fungus diseases like mildew begin to affect squash, pumpkins, cukes, and melons. Treat with Bonide Copper Fungicide.

The following chart includes notes for vegetables you can start this month.

Vegetable Plant Time Amount
(family of 4)		 Special Notes Plant Now
Carrots Year ’round 20 – 30 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest.
 From seed
Radishes Year ’round 4 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest.
 From Seed
Florence Fennel June – August 10 – 15 ft. row Grown for it’s bulbous base. Sensitive to root disturbances.
 From Starts
Parsley Year ’round 1 – 2 plants Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 From Starts
Chives Year ’round 1 clump Suitable for a small garden if growing compact varieties.
 From Starts or seeds
Beets February – April then later again in August 10 – 15 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest.
 Late Aug from seed
Broccoli August – February 15 – 20 ft. row Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest.
 Late Aug from seed
Brussels Sprouts August – February 15 – 20 ft. row N/A
 Late Aug from seed
Cabbage August – February 10 – 15 plants Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 Late Aug from seed
Cabbage, Chinese August – February 10 – 15 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 Late Aug from seed
Cauliflower August – February 10 – 15 plants Tie leaves up and over head to protect from frosts.
 Late Aug from seed
Celery August – February 20 – 30 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 Late Aug from seed
Chard August – February 3 – 4 plants Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 Late Aug from seed
Endive August – February 10 – 15 ft. row N/A
 Late Aug from seed
Kohlrabi August – November 10 – 15 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 Late Aug from seed
Leeks August – February 10 ft. row N/A
 Late Aug from seed
Lettuce August – February 10 – 15 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest.
 Late Aug from seed
Mustard August – April 10 ft. row N/A
 Late Aug from seed
Peas September – January 30 – 40 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest.
 Late Aug from seed
Rutabaga August 10 – 15 ft. row N/A
 Late Aug from seed
Spinach September – January 10 – 20 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 Late Aug from seed
Turnips February – August 10 – 15 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown.
 Late Aug from seed

 

Planting and Growing Citrus


Citrus are the most versatile of the trees and shrubs that grow in our valley. They can be grown as specimens, in hedges, as espalier or in containers. Citrus plants offer beautiful foliage, decorative fruit, and fragrant flowers. Growing citrus can be easy; the difficulty is in selecting the variety which you will enjoy the most.

Growing Citrus

Choosing the Site
citrus-planting-diagramCitrus prefer a hot south or west facing location with good draining soil. Test how well the soil drains by digging a 1’x1′ hole. Fill it with water. The water must be gone in 24 hours. Citrus should not be planted in a low or soggy spot that has poor drainage or in a lawn. If the water does not drain, it may be necessary to raise the overall soil level by creating a mound or building a planting box or look for an alternate planting location. An open-bottom-box measuring 3’x3′ wide and 8″ deep makes a great raised bed. A reflective wall or fence is helpful and planting citrus under the south or west facing eve of the house will provide some important protection from winter cold temperatures.

Preparing the Planting Hole
Dig a hole three times as wide as the root ball and just as deep as the root ball. The edges of the planting hole should then be dug out deeper than the center to accommodate additional soil amendments. (See Illustration)

Improve the existing soil from the planting hole with Master Nursery Acid Planting Mix at a ratio of 75% Planting mix to 25% existing soil. To this improved soil, add the appropriate amount of Master Nursery Master Start and Osmocote Slow Release Fertilizer, mix thoroughly.

Planting
Plant by carefully removing it from its container. Gently rough the outer edges of the root ball if the soil is tight, and place it in the hole so that the top of the root ball rests slightly higher than the existing ground level (never place any soil above the root ball, covering the stem). Back-fill around the root ball with the improved soil mixture. Tamp to compress the soil as you go. Use some of the extra soil to build a circular dam around the new plant to hold a generous quantity of irrigation water.

Watering
Water the plant thoroughly after you have finished planting it. Let the water soak in, and then water again. Citrus plants need less frequent watering than most garden plants. Give it a deep soak once or, at most twice a week, depending on the weather, (frequent watering is the most common cause of failure with citrus). However, to preserve the crop, never let the plant dry out during the bloom & pea-sized fruit stages.

Tea Camellias

Call it a “hot cuppa” or “leaf soup” (thanks to Sheldon and Amy of The Big Bang Theory), tea is a perfect warming winter drink, and we can help you grow tea leaves at home. Tea Camellias, known botanically as Camellia sinensis, are the most widely grown Camellias in the world. Choose one from our abundant stock and make your own flavorful, aromatic green, oolong or black teas. They thrive in well-draining, slightly acidic soil in a light shade area. Periodic fertilizing will have these evergreens, white winter blooming shrubs thriving – and producing flavorful tea leaves – for many years to come.

Growing Climate

Camellia sinensis – or Tea Camellia grows in a broad variety of climates around the world. Tea is grown commercially in both tropical & temperate zones including China, Japan, and the US.

In our area, the Tea Camellia plant prefers a bright shade location.  The morning sun side of your house or under the dappled shade of a large tree would suit the plant well.

Soil should remain moist, not wet and drain should drain well.  It also needs to be kept on the acidic side. Therefore, plant all camellias in a mixture of Nurseryman’s Acid Planting Mixed 75% with 25% native soil. Feed with Azalea Camelia food and treat 2-3 times a year with Iron Sulfate to keep the pH on the acidic side.

Harvest

Tea is harvested as the first flush of leaves emerge in early spring.  Another can occur when a second and possible third flush of leaves appear in late spring/summer. Flowers arrive in fall; ours are blooming now.

 

July Vegetable Guide

sungold-tomato

Vegetable Plant Time Amount
(family of 4)		 Special Notes Plant Now
Artichoke Year ’round 3 – 4 plants Permanent, perennial. 4″ Pots
Beans, String April – May Then later again in July and August 15 – 25 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest. From Starts or Seeds
Carrots Year ’round 20 – 30 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest. From Seeds
Chives Year ’round 1 clump Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. From Starts or Seeds
Corn, sweet April – July 20 – 30 ft. row Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest. Soil must be warm. From Starts or Seeds
Cucumbers April – July 6 plants N/A From Seeds
Florence Fennel June – August 10 – 15 ft. row Grown for it’s bulbous base. Sensitive to root disturbances. From Starts
Parsley Year ’round 1 – 2 plants Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. From Starts
Parsnips May – July 10 – 15 ft. row N/A Seed
Peppers April – July 5 – 10 plants Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown From Starts
Radishes Year ’round 4 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Can be planted more than once/year for a continuous harvest. From Seed
Squash, summer April – July 2 – 4 plants Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. From seeds
Squash, winter June – September 2 – 4 plants Known as winter Squash because it stores over winter but it grows in summer-fall. From seeds
Tomatoes March – July 6 – 10 plants Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. Weather permitting, starting in March is possible. From Starts
Turnips February – August 10 – 15 ft. row Suitable for a small garden if compact varieties are grown. From Seed

EarthBox Vegetable Gardening

This Sungold Tomato grew over 7′ tall in an EarthBox last summer – Note: daily water required.

EarthBoxes are a smart option for container gardening. They are efficient water users allowing a plant to grow considerably more substantial than expected from such a small container, and all water goes to the plant.

EarthBoxes have been tested here and in the gardens of some of our staff, and they work amazingly well.  The EarthBoxes produce more vegetables from a surprisingly small footprint because they are a growing system with moisture and fertilizer delivered slowly and regularly.  They have a plastic mulch cover and a water reservoir, so no water is lost to evaporation or drainage; it all goes to the plant.

Essentially, EarthBoxes are a passive hydroponic growing system.  Water and nutrients are in place, and the plant pulls water and fertilizer as needed. A water reservoir in the bottom of the box has an overflow vent, so it’s impossible to over water.

Someone worked the bugs out of this system; it just works, and if you are interested in container gardening with an eye toward water conservation, EarthBoxes have a few features that mean the plant uses all of the water wasting none to evaporation or runoff.

EarthBoxes are perfect for a new gardener. The experience will be rewarding and relatively trouble-free.  They are also perfect for the gardener who has downsized and does not have space for a large garden, or who is not as able-bodied as they used to be.  Gardening with an EarthBox is easy on the body, even more so if the EarthBox is raised up to waist level to eliminate bending.  Weeds are not a problem.  Come in and take a look.

Wine & Roses… and Beer

The Valley of Wine & Roses… and Beer

When my mother, Ruth, and father Jack would meet new residents asking what they could successfully grow in our valley the answer would start with, “Grapes and Roses.” Our climate, soil, and water are perfectly suited for both. The name of “Hopyard Road” reflects a time when the Valley was known for filling the beer barrel as well.

The arrival of grapes pre-date roses coming to the valley in the mid-1800s with commercial rose growing to start in the 1930s. The Livermore Amador Valley was “World Headquarters” for commercial rose growing in the 1930s – 1960s. All the international growers and breeders were represented in Livermore and Pleasanton. Pleasanton’s Rose Avenue was named in honor of the industry and Jackson & Perkins Rose Company. Due to urbanization, commercial rose growing has since moved to the San Joaquin Valley, but it confirmed our valley was made for growing beautiful, healthy roses.

In addition to wine grapes, table varieties are equally happy here. Like roses, grapes want full hot sun with good air circulation. Here are the grape varieties we carry:

  • Table grapes include Black Monukka, Eastern Concord, Crimson, Flame, Golden Italian Muscat, Ladyfinger, Perlette, Princess, Ruby, Summer Royal, and Thompson. Most are seedless varieties.
  • If you want to be a “Backyard Wine Grower,” choose your favorite from this list: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz or Zinfandel.

Hops were grown commercially on Hopyard Road in Pleasanton. Today there are commercial and backyard growers & brewers who are bringing back the tradition.

Celebrate our valley’s vibrant and growing history by planting a rose, a grapevine, or some hops, – or all three!

Tomatomania

Vine-ripened tomatoes from your own garden, it doesn’t get much better.

Grow your own and enjoy the delicious result and health benefits. April and May are great months to get your tomatoes growing!

We have the old favorites, heirloom varieties, and new hybrids. Fredriks will dazzle us with their tasty “Colorful Collection” and Upstarts will offer certified organic options. There’s something for everyone.

Invest in sturdy tomato cages and use them year after year. (In the winter turn them upside down and use to support flowering or edible peas!) Your little tomato seedlings will reach 5-6’ in height. With the cage support, you can plant more in a small space. I’ve been known to wedge seven tomatoes into a 4’ x 8’ raised bed with room on the edges for basil, chives, and other favorite herbs.

Before you know it, you’ll be slicing tomatoes for salads, making Bruschetta and delicious sauces from your harvest. Add other veggies to the garden as weather permits. Basil and melons love it warm. Save space for them and plant in May.

Plant for Now & Later

This week is unique in that we enter the window of time for starting vegetables for setting out into the garden later.  Gardeners can also set out starter plants for a second, bumper crop of cool season crops.

Summer Vegetable Seed Starting

Now is the time to start seeds indoors for tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. We have seeds, seedling trays, seed starting mix, to get you going.

We also have lighted starting kits and trays.

Here is an example of the highly informative Botanical Interests Seed packet:

Hungarian Yellow Wax Pepper – Capsicum annuum
Organic HEIRLOOM Seeds 

75 days from transplanting. Developed in Hungary, this early-maturing pepper has a waxy texture that resembles beeswax. Wax peppers are actually orange-red when ripe but are usually picked while still yellow. Great used fresh in salads, pickled, fried, canned, or roasted. 4,500–5,000 Scoville heat units (medium hot).

When to sow outside: For mild climates only: 2 to 4 weeks after average last frost, when soil temperature is at least 70°F [Warm enough for Sun Bathing].

When to start inside: RECOMMENDED. 8 to 10 weeks before transplanting. Ideal soil temperature for germination is 70°‒90°F. Transplant seedlings outside 2 to 4 weeks after average last frost, and when daytime temperatures are at least 70°F, and nighttime temperatures are at least 55°F. Mild Climates: Also sow in late summer for fall/winter crop.

Harvesting: Harvest when 3″–5″ long or longer and when peppers are yellow or orange-red. Even though Hungarian yellows are usually harvested yellow, they will ripen to orange-red if left on the vine. When harvesting, take care to avoid touching the interior of any broken peppers, as the capsaicin is an extreme irritant, especially to the eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after harvesting, or wear gloves to harvest peppers.

Artist: Pat Fostvedt

Want to start a second “Bumper Crop” of winter vegetables?

Peas, broccoli, onions, and cauliflower set out now can squeeze in a productive run before temperatures rise in June.  Cool season crops, such as these are often planted in September and October for harvest now, but planting now allows you to work in a crop for later spring harvest. This can even out your garden harvest before summer veggies begin to fruit.

Snap peas are great for a quick, sweet snack.  Plant a couple for snacking or plant a 10′ row for meal-size harvests.

Cauliflower comes in hues including orange and white; Broccoli is in stock in green and chartreuse; try something new!

 

 

 

 

Artichokes

artichoke600[1]

Artichokes are a cool season perennial vegetable. The mature plants reach 3-5 feet in height and cover several square feet with large, deep-cut, grey-green leaves.

Artichokes are primarily grown for the soft fleshy flower bud, but this handsome plant is often used ornamentally in the garden. Given the proper conditions, each plant will produce several stalks with many flower heads and will remain productive for several years.

Preparing the Soil
Artichokes grow best in rich, well-drained soils supplied with plenty of organic matter. We recommend MASTER NURSERY GOLD RUSH. One cubic foot will enable you to prepare a 3 ft by 3 ft area, enough for one artichoke plant. Also important when planting is an initial treatment of MASTER NURSERY BONE MEAL. Use one cup bone meal beneath each plant for strong root development. Mix well into the soil beneath the roots. Water new transplants immediately and thoroughly.

Planting
Early winter to early spring is the perfect time for planting artichokes. Plant divisions in a sunny location or in one that receives a half day shade. Artichokes need plenty of room; space them about four feet apart. Place the plants in the soil, so the base of the new leafy shoots is just above the ground.

Watering & Feeding
After growth begins, water plants thoroughly once per week. Regular soakings are much more beneficial than frequent lighter sprinklings. As temperatures rise, plants may need additional water. Water when the leaves start to relax and wilt.

For a balanced supply of nutrients, feed the plants monthly with MASTER NURSERY TOMATO & VEGETABLE FOOD.

Harvesting
Cut artichokes while the buds are tight and about 2 to 4 inches in diameter. Cut each bud with 1 to 2 inches of the stalk. If left on the plant, the green bracts loosen, and their purple flowers show. Buds will open more rapidly in hot weather.

artichoke600[1]After harvesting, the last artichokes from a stem, it will wither, and the leaves will die back to the ground. Mid-summer is also the time to cut the stem and leaves to the ground. New shoots will grow from the base producing a new plant with next year’s crop.  Make regular applications of Sluggo Plus to ward off earwig invaders.

We’ve got Hops

Hops are not only a key ingredient in brewing beer, but they are also a beautiful vine, and hard to find.  We have a “hop yard” of them!

In years past hops were grown commercially in the area, hence “Hopyard Road.” They can grow in full sun or partial shade.

We love them and hope you plant a few.  Hops can transform your garden with rampant beauty and a wonderful story. Vines can climb 25 feet in a season. As winter comes on, they die back to the ground. Set plants in soil improved with Master Nursery  Gold Rush.  They appreciate fertile soil and good drainage.

Hops (the female flowers) have been used for a thousand years in beer making. They work with the yeast to improve brewing and add flavor.  You can have a garden that wraps you up with beauty and tradition… and if you want to make beer, you can supply your ingredients too!