A Lilac in Every Garden

Lilacs have been around forever. Their nostalgic fragrance will transport you to earlier times and bring a smile to your face. Their romantic fragrance has inspired poetry, songs, romance and for many bring fond nostalgic memories of springs past. It is a MUST HAVE and a grandmother in your life – or me – would agree!

From bud through bloom you’ll enjoy lilacs for 6 to 8 weeks usually in April and early May. They indeed say, “Spring is Here.” Soak up their beauty in the garden or cut in a vase.

These deciduous shrubs are the perfect reminder that warmer days are soon to come. They can be used as a hedge or screen in the landscape, a single accent, or planted in mixed borders. Lilacs attract hummingbirds and butterflies and are surprisingly resistant to deer. We have a selection of different sizes and colors that will bloom in your garden this year and many years to come. What’s important to remember is where they would happily live and where you would like them to grow. Since lilacs lose their leaves in winter and are in glorious bloom for 6-8 weeks in spring, my suggestion is they be planted in an area that’s not the highest profile but certainly within ‘enjoyment’ view. 

Lilacs will prosper in our heavy Valley soils; transplant easily; are drought tolerant; prefer full sun, with a touch of afternoon shade, but will grow in light shade. They will endure a wide range of temperatures — our occasionally frosty valley winters will not phase the hardy lilac, they like the winter chill.

Low maintenance and very forgiving of occasional neglect, lilacs are ideal for busy valley weekend gardeners faced with time conflicts. All they ask is well-drained soil with good air circulation and lots of sunlight. In return, they will give you good looks, a fragrant bloom and cut flowers your neighbors will envy.

One of the oldest European garden favorites, Lilacs were spread throughout the world by Dutch, English, and French settlers and now adorn gardens and landscapes from America to China. Many mid-West and Eastern Gardeners in California yearn for lilacs to remind them of home.

Lilacs are a treasure in people’s hearts and minds for their classic scent and beauty. Establish them in spring before summer heat arrives and enjoy them for generations to come. We have several varieties for you to select from. Come and find just the right color to add to your garden and do some “Time Traveling” with its perfume.

Dave’s Rose Fertilizer Program

Learn from the Winning Rosarians – Feed your Roses now for a glorious display in spring. This feeding program is inspired by the late, David Lowell, a local rosarian and friend who developed a number of hybridized roses and always took home ribbons for his rose show entries.

Dave’s Rose feeding program provides for general plant vigor and beautiful looking roses! For use on established roses only (planted for at least six months). Apply in MARCH and also AUGUST.

For each rose apply:

  • Master Nursery 16-16-16 – 1/2 cup/rose (5# bag for 18 roses) (August application recommended E.B. Stone 5-5-5 fertilizer 1 cup/rose)
  • Bone Meal 1/2 cup per rose (4# bag for 18 roses)
  • Sulfur* 1/2 cup per rose (5# box for 18 roses)
  • Gypsum 1/2 cup per rose (5# box for 18 roses)
  • Magnesium Sulfate 2 Tbs. per rose (5# box for 70+ roses)
  • Chicken Fertilizer 1 shovel per rose (1 bag for ~ nine roses)

*to supply sulfur, use one of the following: Iron Sulfate, Iron Plus*, or Soil Sulfur. Iron-containing products can stain. Wash off adjacent paving after ­application. (*Iron Plus is non-staining.)

Water your roses deeply the day before feeding.

Sprinkle the first five ingredients around each rose and mix into the soil if possible. Then sprinkle the chicken fertilizer around each rose and water everything in.

DO NOT combine this recipe with systemic rose fertilizer. It poses a health risk to pets if swallowed. Pets are attracted to the bone meal and may ingest systemic rose food if included in this recipe – or applied other months in the same area.

A two-inch mulch layer may be put around your roses to conserve water and insulate roots from the summer heat. Pull the mulch back 6″ away from the plant stem.

Leading Ladies

To celebrate Women’s History month, let’s take a look at some lovely roses named after inspiring women.

Start Morning Glory Seeds

Start annual morning glories from seed this month and establish them in the garden or a pot by summer! Morning glories are one of the most stunning of the old-fashioned garden flowers. Flowers are huge – three to five inches across – and bright, colorful blue, purple or pink. Best of all, morning glories are easy!

Start indoors to transplant later, or directly sow in the landscape now.  Improve the soil by mixing a couple of inches of Gold Rush soil conditioner into the garden soil. Plant seeds a half inch deep. Water to get them started.

Morning glories from seed are typically annuals, dying completely in winter, though they will most likely reseed to sprout next year.

Try planting morning glory among sunflowers.  The sunflowers will grow quickly, providing a natural trellis for the Morning Glory to climb.  Sunflowers also may be started from seed outdoors now or in the coming weeks.

Select Summer Flowering Bulbs Now

Splashes of bright color can brighten your summer gardens by planting summer blooming bulbs as the weather warms. Make your selections now! You can guarantee yourself a glorious summer filled with many cut flower bouquets.

Some of the summer blooming favorites include Gladiolus, Dahlias, Lilies and Tuberous Begonias. Their bright and dramatic colors make great garden accents for the long, hot summer days.

If you plant the Gladiolus every two weeks, you will have cut flowers through the summer. Dahlias are available in different heights and flower forms. Dahlia tubers get bigger every year and provide a larger and more colorful show.

If you have a shady spot in the garden that needs cheering up consider using hybrid Begonias. Tuberous Begonias are available in hanging basket and upright varieties.

Deciduous Magnolias

The various deciduous magnolia hybrids are commonly referred to as tulip trees. They display an abundance of large, tulip-shaped flowers in early spring. The flowers can be up to 12 inches in diameter, depending on the variety.

Deciduous magnolias drop all their leaves by December, revealing their large silvery buds. Even in the darkest days of winter, the budded magnolias are ripe with the promise of spectacular early spring bloom.

Deciduous Magnolias would be happiest when planted in an area that gets a mid-afternoon shade break. E. B. Stone Acid Planting Mix is a worthwhile addition to our soil.

The next month is the best time to see the Magnolias in bloom. Shop early for the best selection, and you will find that Yes — Tulips do grow on trees!

Australian Native Plants

Correa – Australian Fuchsia blooms in light shade

Australian native plants are blooming in the garden now. Plants from the “Land Down Under” are unique in form and flower – they are nothing like you will find elsewhere. Australian plants have unique shapes and colors and add interest to our winters when fewer things are blooming. Colorful Aussie Natives are happy California transplants and most are water wise.

Australia’s climate is Mediterranean, similar to central California, dry in summer with mild, wet winters. We are a bit cooler here in the winter. Most of these Aussie natives are hardy to 20 degrees F. They are evergreen and flower from winter through spring bringing a bright spot of color to our winter gardens and tend to be great in terms of low water use.

Grevillea is a large family of plants that range from low growing ‘Coastal Gem’ to shrub like ‘Robyn Gordon’ reaching 5-6′ tall that can reach a spread of up to 10′ wide. They have masses of tubular pink, red, cream and yellow flowers that the hummingbirds love. They are great on banks or hillsides. The shadier places in the garden will benefit from the Australian Fuchsias (Correas) with their hanging bells in shades of cream to red.

Westringia fruticosa ‘Mundi’ or White Flowering Coast Rosemary is a spreading evergreen shrub from Australia. Grows to 1-2′ feet and 4-6′ feet wide. Green to gray-green leaves have white undersides. Small whiteish, lavender flowers bloom from midwinter through spring in colder areas, and all year in milder climates. Needs light, well-drained soil.  

Explore the possibilities!

Westringia fruticosa ‘Mundi’ or White Flowering Coast Rosemary is a shrub with silvery leaves and beautiful flowers.

Correas or Australian Fuchsias are a wonderful collection of plants with flowers ranging from cream through pink and coral; they thrive in morning sun to light shade. They can tolerate full sun with deep soaking and mulching.

‘Robyn Gordon’ Grevillea (not currently in stock, but we are searching for) is a 5-6′ shrub with a 10′ spread sporting spectacular blooms fall through spring. It’s naturally drought tolerant.

Grevillea rosmarinifolia (dwarf form) is a compact shrub that grows about 2′ tall x 3′ wide. Likes sun to part shade and good drainage.

Sweet Winter Daphne – A Fragrant Winter Bloomer

Daphne odora or Sweet Winter Daphne is a prize in the winter landscape.  It’s the sweetest smelling plant you will find in the garden this month. Fragrant and also lovely looking; forming a shrub to about 3′ high, it requires bright shade and excellent drainage. Daphne is a great container plant – use our Master Nursery Professional Potting Soil.

Daphne comes in a few different forms, but the Daphne odora, “Aureo-marginata” is a favorite. Its leaves are delicately edged in cream. The leaves do a nice job of framing the dark pink buds. 

Daphne needs perfect drainage, but it should not go dry. This may seem an impossible combination. Let’s just say it needs both air and water. Experienced gardeners say it’s not as finicky as gardenias. One plant was observed suffering when it transitioned from hand watering “as needed” to automatic sprinklers that water all the time whether needed or not.  It’s better to water by hand.

Daphne is rewarding and worth a try. Come smell for yourself.  It’s on display now.

January Pruning – What to Prune When

pruning[1]We have officially entered pruning season. Most leafless plants are fair game for pruning right now. Exceptions include ornamental flowering cherries, plums, and lilacs that bloom once a year in spring and are leafless now. Prune these just after they bloom otherwise you will be cutting off next spring’s blooms. Most other plants, including fruit trees and shade trees “can” as opposed to “must” be pruned because many plants are happy with little or no pruning.

Feel free to visit us for additional information.

For additional reading, the University of California has produced an in-depth article. Click Here For Handout

Tips for Pruning Roses

obj6306geo2742pg239p7[1]The suggested time for pruning roses is January in Northern California. Even though your roses may still be leafy, budded or blooming it is time to force them to rest. Pruning them back now, removing every single leaf and dormant spraying with copper will provide a healthy beginning for the coming season.

Here are some tips in advance of our pruning classes.

What You’ll Need:

  • Body armor – safety or prescription glasses, a hat, and a long-sleeved sweatshirt will go a long way insulating you from thorny branches. A good pair of leather gloves such as gauntlet types will do a superior job of protecting your forearms
  • Pruning shears – sharp hand shears along with a long-handled lopper and a pruning saw are helpful for hard to reach or extra large wood
  • Pruning seal – sealing cuts prevents the cane borer insect from invading and killing stems
  • Copper dormant spray like Monterey Liqui-Cop to control over-wintering diseases

For specific variety and form (bush, miniature, tree & shrub) pruning tips, come in and one our rose experts will be happy to help. In the meantime here are some pruning basics. For the most part, roses produce flowers on current season growth. Therefore, the more new growth you have, the more bloom potential you’ll enjoy. Pruning is one way of stimulating new growth.

If your bush form roses have grown sky high lop off the top one-quarter to one-third of the plant so you can more easily and safely do the ‘fine pruning.’ For bush and tree forms you always want to maintain evenly spaced canes (stems) around the outside of the plant. The number of canes that you leave depends on the vigor of the plant. Three to seven is the rule in the case of bush roses. Tree roses rarely sprout new ones as they age so encourage and maintain those well-spaced branches. The final height of the stems depends on the variety and vigor of the plant.

We have gotten away from pruning roses to within an inch of their life (6-12 inches). The general rule is to prune back by at least 1/3rd, and no more than 1/2. Leaving the canes a bit longer provides the plant with extra energy for the coming season’s performance. Prune to an outside bud where a leaf was to ensure that the next branch will grow in an outward direction. On both tree and bush roses remove all twigs and stems that are crowding the center of the plant. The extra sunlight will warm the bud union and encourage more young stems to grow that will eventually be selected to replace the older canes. The light also stimulates increased flower production.

The bud union is the area where desirable buds from the specific rose variety join the rose rootstock .

Always remove any stems coming from below the bud union. These suckers are vigorous and can over-grow the desirable rose. If your white or pink rose is producing small red flowers, it has been taken over by the rootstock rose.

Maintain a nice compliment of permanent climbing rose canes that you will arch against the fence, wall or train over an arbor. The stems that grow off these permanent canes are pruned back to four buds. The resulting new growth will produce a mass of flowers. There are always exceptions to the rule so touch base with our rose experts for just the right pruning guidance.

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